It took me 20 years to find out I was connecting the wires to my train transformer wrong–and this applies to American Flyer and Marx just as much as to Lionel–and I don’t want the same thing to happen to you. I was making it far, far too difficult.
Modern transformers have a groove in the post to accept a wire, but vintage transformers don’t. If you’re having problems with the wires coming off your transformer while you try to cinch them down, here’s how to connect to a vintage transformer in three simple steps.
I have a method of testing electric train track from Lionel, American Flyer, Marx or any other brand. The key is to test it one piece at a time, so you know any problem you found is isolated to a single piece of track.
Here are a couple of different ways to test, depending on what tools you have available.
There are four posts on the Marx 1249 transformer, but don’t fret if you’ve lost the instructions. Connecting it is easy. But first, you’ll probably want to check it out for safety before plugging it in.
There are two sets of posts on the transformer, but don’t let that confuse you. One set of posts powers the train, and the other set powers any accessories you might have, such as a station. If you don’t have any accessories, you can simply ignore the second set.
If you have issues with your trains slowing down on the far reaches of your layout–and judging from my website hits, many people do–there are a couple of things to do about it. The first thing is to run additional feeder wires. Going by the book, you should go every third track section. Do I push it a little? Sure. Sometimes I can get away with a little less than that, and sometimes every three sections isn’t quite enough.
How do you make a Lionel electric train whistle? Well, if you have a whistling tender, a transformer with a whistle button or handle, and it’s all wired correctly, pushing the button or handle while the train is moving will make it whistle.
I hear stories all the time about the Lionel train that someone found at a garage sale for $10. Or sometimes it’s a Marx. The one that bothered me the most was the story about a 65-year-old American Flyer locomotive for $10, and the guy who got it didn’t even like O gauge.
Whatever. Today was my day. I found a Lionel starter set from 1999. The price marked on it: $8. I didn’t haggle. I handed over Alexander Hamilton, scooped up the train set, grabbed a couple of Washingtons, and headed to the car with a train set under my arm.For $8, I didn’t expect much. But I knew the locomotive alone was worth that. I got it home this afternoon and looked it over.
It was a set Lionel made for Keebler: The Keebler Elfin Express. Nope, no real railroad names on this set. The locomotive was cast from the same Scout mold that Lionel has been using for its starter sets since the early 1950s. But this one had a 4-wheel truck up front, making it a 4-4-2 Atlantic.
The cars are traditional 6464-sized: a boxcar and a flat car. The boxcar advertises Keebler products, and the flat has a cardboard load of, you guessed it, Pillsbury products. Nope, more Keebler.
The same traditional SP-style caboose that Lionel has been using since the early ’50s brings up the rear.
It didn’t look like the set had seen much use. The instructions were long gone, but a lot of the accessories are still on the plastic sprue. The lockon was on the track and the transformer was wired to it, so I knew it had been used a little. I set it up on a loop of O27 track and let it rip. It ran nicely. To my surprise, the locomotive has smoke, and the tender has a whistle, so the train smokes and whistles. Not bad for 8 bucks.
A couple of the track pieces were bent, as if they’d been stepped on. I can fix them. For the price I paid, I’m not going to complain. I’d be able to get clean used O27 curves for a dime or a quarter each at the Boeing Employee Model Railroad Club show in September. But I’ve got plenty of O27 curves in my basement. Those things breed.
It took me forever to find the lockout switch for the reverse on the bottom of the locomotive. At first I figured it had no reverse, but looking at the underside, I noticed it had a lot of electronics in it–far more than would be needed just to convert the AC current from the transformer to the DC current the can motor needed. (Yes, Lionel builds a lot of inefficiencies into its modern equipment to keep it compatible with the old stuff–and that drives up cost.) Finally I found the switch, unlocked it, and the locomotive gained neutral and reverse capabilities.
I don’t mess around with modern-issue Lionel much. I like the old stuff. But for 8 bucks, I won’t be picky.
It’s the weekend after Thanksgiving. The time of year when nostalgia runs high and ancient toy trains come out of the basement or the attic and get set up again until sometime after the new year.
Well, hopefully they make it that long. Here are some tips for getting old Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and similar electric trains running again.The first thing to do is to check the transformer. While external appearance is no guarantee of good things going on inside, it’s a safe bet that if the case is rusty, there’s corrosion inside. If you’re interested in a more thorough checkout, I go over that here. If the power cord is frayed, it’s a fire hazard or electrical shock hazard. Don’t plug it in in that state, but you may be able to fix it yourself.
The transformer should say its wattage and whether it’s AC or DC somewhere on the surface. A modern Lionel or K-Line AC transformer is a suitable replacement for all vintage Lionel, Flyer, and Marx transformers. A few Lionel and Marx sets used DC transformers. Absolutely any hobby shop that sells trains will be able to sell you a suitable replacement DC transformer. If you can’t get an AC transformer, you can use a DC transformer in a pinch, but the reverse is not true.
If your transformer is safe, it’s time to test the locomotive. Connect a wire to each terminal on the tranny. Flip the locomotive over. Marx locomotives will have a copper shoe on the bottom. Most Lionels will have a pair of roller wheels. Very old (pre-1945) American Flyers also have roller wheels. For these types of locomotives, touch one wire to the shoe or roller and the other wire to one of the big driver wheels and turn the transformer on to a low speed. With any luck, the motor will turn over and the wheels will turn.
If the locomotive hums and the wheels refuse to turn, and the wheels don’t turn easily by hand, you may have something binding. Stop before you burn up the armature–an expensive repair.
Post-WWII American Flyers are trickier. They used two rails, so the wheels are the only electrical pickups. Steam engines usually used the wheels on the tender–the coal car that sits behind the locomotive–rather than the wheels on the engine itself. Flip the tender over and look for wheels that seem to be made of metal. Connect the tender up to the locomotive–the wire tether only plugs in one way–then follow the same procedure as above.
If the locomotive doesn’t run, clean the driver wheels and the pickup with cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol. Simply dip a swab into the alcohol, rub it on the wheel, and when it gets dirty, repeat with a new swab until the swabs stay clean. Be prepared to use a lot of them.
If the locomotive runs, clean the wheels anyway. Trust me, they’re probably filthy, and the dirtier the locomotive, the more sparks will fly.
There’s one other simple repair to try if the locomotive still doesn’t run. Flip it over and look inside the body. See if you can find a copper piece inside. Sometimes it’s visible and sometimes it isn’t. If you’re lucky, it’s just visible enough that you can get a cotton swab up into it. Dip a swab in the alcohol, apply it to that copper piece, and turn the wheels. Yes, this is one of those tasks that would be much easier with three hands. Repeat until the swabs stay clean.
Now that you’ve established that the locomotive is good and the transformer is good, it’s time to tackle the track. Ideally, the track should be clean, bright, and shiny. Clean and dull will still work too. But all too often it’s dirty and even rusty.
The safest way to clean the track is to use paper towels and a household cleaner. My favorite to use is mineral spirits, but in a pinch you can use alcohol, white vinegar, glass cleaner, and even harsher stuff like Simple Green. Citrus cleaners often do a good job but they leave residue, so if you use a citrus cleaner, follow it up with alcohol or glass cleaner.
You can clean off light rust with a kitchen scouring pad and vinegar. For track that shows heavy damage, I cover fixing that here.
Clean up enough track to make a full circle. If you have more track, you can always clean more track later. You can make life a bit easier on yourself if you test each piece of track for shorts before spending too much time cleaning it.
Also check for missing and/or damaged pins. Heavily rusted pins need to be sanded down or replaced. All pins should be cleaned. Cannibalize pins from other pieces of track if need be. Pins can be removed from track with a pair of locking pliers by pulling with a back-and-forth motion.
Once you have a circle of clean track, look for your lockon. That’s the piece that has two wire terminals and two clips to connect to the track. If you can’t find a lockon, you can jam the wires into the bottom of the track with a slotted screwdriver. For Lionel, Marx, and pre-1945 American Flyer, one wire connects to the center rail and the other to the outer rail. Postwar American Flyer takes one wire to each rail.
With a clean circle of track set up and the transformer connected, it’s time to put the locomotive on the track and take it for a spin. Be sure to put one car behind the locomotive but don’t make a whole train. We want to give the locomotive enough of a load that it won’t be as likely to fly off the track but we don’t want to make it work too hard too soon.
Plug in the transformer and turn it on to a slow speed. Gradually increase the speed until the locomotive moves. Give the locomotive a push if it needs it. If it runs but not well, push it around the track to give it some help.
After these machines have been sitting unused for years or decades, it can take some time for them to get used to running again. But all of the Big Three made good products in the 1950s; chances of them running well after some coaxing are pretty high.
Before you run it extensively, it’s usually a good idea to lube them. Don’t reach for a can of WD-40; this calls for a better oil and more precision. If you have some 3-in-1 oil or another sewing machine oil, that’s good. Some people also use motor oil. Yes, some snobs won’t let anything less than Mobil 1 near their trains. At any rate, get some oil and a toothpick. Stick the tip of the toothpick in the oil, and touch the toothpick to any exposed axles you see. If you have any grease, put a very small amount of grease on the gears. If you don’t have grease, petroleum jelly can do in a pinch.
There are usually some gears inside as well, especially on post-1945 American Flyers, but always do the simple things first and see if they run, then stop unless the engine still has problems. It’s very easy to give an old engine new problems if you get too ambitious too quickly with your repair.
At any rate, chances are pretty good that your locomotive is running by now. I think I’ve messed with 15 different old locomotives over the course of the past year. This procedure was enough to get all but two of them running–including a locomotive that dated from the 1920s.
I hope you’ve found this post helpful. If you have, please share a link, whether it’s on your own blog, a forum, Twitter, or Facebook.
David L. Farquhar, computer security professional, train hobbyist, and landlord