After spending the better part of two weekends on it, the kitchen floor is exactly six tiles away from being complete.

I guess this is as good of a time as any to share what I've learned.

If you mark the tiles with pencil, the pencil marks come off really easily with a little soap and water. This is good, because I don't think I ever got my measurements right the first time.

The later at night it gets, the more likely I am to measure something wrong. I cut two tiles close to the counters too short. I can cover up the gap, but I shouldn't have needed to. Note to self: Check measurements at least one more time than seems necessary.

T-rail is ridiculously expensive. I'm not going to pay $25 apiece for the t-rail I need for the two doors. I'll buy a couple of $3 3-foot lengths of hobby wood, then I'll stop off at the hobby shop for a piece of 1/4" square basswood if I can't find something similar at the big box store (I'll probably need a dollar's worth). I'll glue and clamp them together, then finish it how I like, and probably have something better for 1/6 the cost.

Quarter round is ridiculously expensive too. The original baseboards from my kitchen are in the basement. A previous owner reused some of it in place of quarter round the last time the kitchen floor was redone, but there's plenty left. I'll use some of that instead.

Use at least a 25 TPI blade to cut the tiles. Tom Gatermann came over yesterday to help me cut some tiles. He found that coarse blades just don't cut the tile as quickly or easily as a fine blade does.

Using his bandsaw, I can cut a tile in about five minutes, even for weird cuts like around doors. I think Tom might have taken a bit longer than that sometimes, but his cuts are a lot straighter than mine too. But that's the nice thing about click tiles--the cuts will be hiding under quarter round or baseboards or some other kind of moulding.

Don't leave difficult spots in the middle of the room, like around your stove, until later. It's really hard to come back and click tiles into place when the surrounding tiles are already down. You can do it, but it takes a lot longer, and your chances of leaving a gap somewhere are a lot higher.

Get a pullbar for laminate floors, and use it to slam the tiles together. You can get one for about $7 at a big-box store, and it'll save you hours. It might be the best seven bucks I ever spent.

Most of the time, the pullbar is the right tool to put tiles together. Occasionally, you'll need to bang the tiles with a piece of 2x4 to get them to move together. It seems to me that about a 10-inch length of 2x4 is about perfect for those cases.

This stuff never should have fallen out of fashion. I guess linoleum fell out of favor in the 1960s and 1970s because vinyl offered a greater variety of colors and patterns, but that's a shame because it's wonderful stuff. It's extremely easy to clean. It's durable and to an extent, it's self-healing. I've watched it heal itself after minor mishaps. Linoleum is expensive, and the Marmoleum click tiles border on ridiculously expensive, but it will outlast pretty much anything else you can put down and it won't drive you nuts trying to keep it clean.

And now I know why kitchens are expensive. Everything that goes into them is expensive, and you end up needing a lot of little things. Some of these things are easy enough to make yourself--transition pieces for other types of flooring come to mind, but that requires some time and at least a little skill. So you'll either pay for material, or you'll spend more time to save some money.