Yesterday Lifehacker did a feature on laptop tweaks and upgrades, that basically came down to reinstalling the OS, adding memory, and upgrading to an SSD. All of those are good things to do of course, but there’s more you can do. I posted a response there; I’ll elaborate a bit here, where I have more room to do so.
There are tons of links here to previous content I’ve written; optimizing aging machines is a recurring theme for me. I’ve been writing on that topic for 11 years now.
Yes, you still need to do it, assuming you have a platter drive. MyDefrag (mydefrag.com) does a much better job than the one Microsoft provides, and it’s free. To defragment your pagefile and system files, see my earlier post here. All of the utilities are free. MyDefrag is the successor to JK-Defrag, mentioned in the other post.
How often should you defrag? I think for most people, a through defrag 1-2 times a year is adequate. Doing it monthly shouldn’t hurt, but it’s probably overkill, unless you create and delete tons and tons of large files. The people who defrag daily or weekly probably are spending more time defragging than they’re saving.
This is purely anecdotal, but I did desktop support for about a year alongside another guy who handled one department because he was management’s golden boy. He was obsessive about defragging–he had the systems doing a defrag every boot. This made booting a 20-minute ordeal (or worse), and his users constantly had problems. Any time he wasn’t around and people called me for help, I got an earful. I think his daily defrag routine did much more harm than good.
Optimize the registry
The difference it makes is debatable and really depends on what state your PC is in, but after you run CCleaner and the like, run NTRegopt. This will dump the empty space in the Registry, and unlike many commercial registry “optimizers,” it does no harm. Also free.
Some pundits will tell you these tools make a minimal difference, and on a fresh build and especially on the top-of-the-line hardware most of them run, they’re probably right. But I’ve seen NTRegopt cut 20 seconds off a system’s boot time, and who wouldn’t want that?
If your main complaint is that Firefox is slow, here’s a nifty trick with its error console. The difference is unbelievable, if you’ve been running Firefox a while.
If you haven’t done it already, go into your system properties and select “best performance” to turn off all the visual effects. If you’re a bit low on CPU, video, or memory prowess, that simple change can help.
A lot of the antivirus programs are notorious resource hogs, so just uninstalling Norton/Symantec Antivirus or McAfee Antivirus, particularly if you’re running an older version, and replacing it with Microsoft Security Essentials can really help.
I’d also suggest running a bootable antivirus live CD, such as Bitdefender, just to get a second opinion, in case some malware slipped by your defenses and is slowing things down. Nothing catches everything, so second opinions are always good.
On the hardware front, if you can’t afford an SSD, replacing the hard drive with a bigger, faster one still helps. Chances are your laptop didn’t come with a high-performance drive, and even if it did, today’s performance drives are better. Given an old drive running at 7200 RPM and a new one running at the same rotation speed, the new one will be 20% faster due to increased platter density. Every year, they pack more and more data per platter, and that increases speed, because each turn of the disk causes the head to pick up 20% more data than an earlier generation drive.
The 20% figure is a bit arbitrary of course. And if you replace a 5400 RPM drive with a new 7200 RPM drive, the difference will be bigger.
The hard drive is always a laptop’s big bottleneck. I still think an Intel X25-V SSD is the best $100 upgrade you can do for any computer, but if the 40 GB capacity is going to hold you back too much, drop in a 500 GB Western Digital Scorpio Black for $70.
You might as well go ahead and use a 500 GB drive (or larger, if availability and budget permit). Larger drives are less prone to fragmentation than small, cramped drives, so you’ll have to defragment a larger drive less often, and the process will take less time too. And when you give a good defragmentation program lots of space to work with, it can put critical files at the front of the disk where access is faster, and speed-agnostic files, like archives and MP3s, toward the back. The difference when you do that can be mind-blowing.